bryan and i had our first surfing lesson on friday. we are taking them from a member of our ward, tim tower (doesn't his name just say, "surfer"?!?!) he is a retired judge in his 60s who started surfing at 45. i think he is so cool. he spends a lot of time learning about surfing. he told us that san diego and hawii were the 2 important places in the history of surfing. san diego surfers really modernized the sport.
we had our lesson at 7, so i had to wake up at 6 to go get our babysitter. i am not a morning person, but this adventure was worth the sleep loss.
a few thoughts on surfing:
1. it is super hard
bryan did really well. i stood up like 2 times, but fell very quickly the first time and the second time i TOTALLY missed the wave.
2. yoga practice did help my ability to "pop up," BUT popping up on a surf board is totally different than on the sand.
3. you must be fearless. i kept thinking i might die and i think over thinking the process actually made me less safe.
4. swallowing salt water is super gross.
4. i am glad that tim towers told us about the grey and white sharks sited where we were surfing AFTER we got out of the water and were walking to the car. yikes.
we were supremly tired and quite salty at the end of the session. the next day we were both sore. we are having one more lesson and i am sure it will be more successful the second time around.
now that i "surf" i am feeling much more like a san diegan.
you really are too cool for words.
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